Walking the West Highland Way

10 things I've learned

I walked the length of the West Highland Way, I did no training or preparation...It was difficult (but as you can see, not impossible) and I learned a few things on the Way...

1. Who cares what you look like- Once it rains/ you start sweating/ you slip in a bog it won't matter. I wore clothes that were comfortable and they were not expensive- I didn't want to spend £30 on proper walking trousers when I might not wear them again and they might hurt. I just wore comfy yoga pants.

alt

2. Boots. The exception to the rule is boots. Get the best boots you can afford. If you are going to do anything like 96 miles you will be glad you did. My boots were okay but I plan to invest in super light well made boots when I get some cash. They'll probably last me 10 years because I don't do that much walking. Worth every penny I plan to spend.

3. Walk with people you can fall out with. If you are underfit (I like to think I'm underfit, not unfit) like me then a good part of the challenge is the mental challenge of keeping going when it seems improbable that you will get to the top of that hill. If you are walking with people who will forgive your venting of frustration and anger towards them you'll probably go back out the next day and walk some more. Walk with people who you don't really know and the mental challenge will be all the harder and you might end up hating it, even the good bits.

4.Walk with people who make you laugh. Seriously, I've spent 6 whole days with my brothers and my mum walking and sometimes I couldn't walk another step for laughing so hard. I'd lose my pace and breath on a hill as they decided to start boxing each other, or dancing, or pretending to be raptors... It makes the hard stretches slightly easier, it makes the easy ones so much more fun. Walking into Crianlarich I was exhausted but couldn't resist joining in with the dancing, slaloming and general silliness that was going on. It meant I wasn't thinking about my feet.

alt

5. Everyone has a role to play. Even if you are the fattest, slowest, most unfit person in the group (i.e. me) you still contribute to the goal. Whether it's a well timed lollypop, a steady pace when others are struggling, the determination to finish when others are ready to give in, the photographer, or an excuse for others to slow it down a little. Don't think you are holding others back, the goal is to get everyone to the end...not the time you do it in.

6. Only carry essentials. Seriously, if it doesn't preserve live or give protection from the elements don't carry it. And seriously consider how much you need to be carrying- clean socks and clean underwear are probably essential but clean trousers? t-shirts? nah! Take all in one cleaning stuff- soap and shampoo, like I say- who cares what you look like! The smallest first aid kit you can imagine- if it wont fit in your pocket you probably don't need it.

7. Camera/ Music- iphones are wonderful things. This was my only concession to non-essential weight. Pictures are pretty much the only thing I was bringing back from the walk so a camera is essential. Music will keep you going through the toughest spots and add in a phone and you have a complete first aid kit! (Bizarrely, awesome reception in the highlands of Scotland.)

8. A map. Even though our route was ridiculously well marked we still had a map. None of us are amazing map readers but we can read contours and find landmarks and orientate ourselves on the map. It was endlessly usefull to determine how far we still had to walk and- on the first day, an alternative route down as light faded. If you are somewhere you don't know, get a map and use it. Besides, it makes a great souvenier at the end of the day.

alt

9. It really is best to start with a hill. I know, it sounds wrong but seriously, it's better that way.

10. When it's tough, remember that the pain will fade and you'll be proud of yourself when you get where you are going. There is nothing like the sense of achievement of doing something yourself so don't give up and remember numbers 3, 4 and 7 on the list!

The one last thing I suggest that you do if you think you might not even start the walk... that you'll find a way to back out. Do it for charity and get cash in before you start. Nothing like knowing people have paid cold hard cash to get you out the door.

In all seriousness. I could not have walked any of those 96 miles without some serious support.

My mum organised it all- where we would walk to and from each day. She set the pace so that we would get there on time and not totally exhausted. She booked the bunkhouses, organised food, bought the book and map... I may have had the idea to do the walk but she made it possible. She even put up with me whinging and moaning when I was beyond tired. Sorry mum.

Kris and Callum. Seriously, they are awesome. I love that they willingly came out and did this crazy plan with me. That they took turns to walk with me no matter how slow I got. That they carried my pack when I was exhausted. That Callum went back almost a mile to pick up a teddy bear that I dropped. That they too put up with my mumping and grumping. That they shared their Wham bars with me. They gave up time from their busy lives to help me complete my challenge and they did it with the best sense of humour ever.

Christopher. I couldn't ditch the kids for six days if he didn't take on the extra days and nights of watching and caring for the girls. He willingly washed and ironed all of my clothes between walks. Waterproofed my boots after each walk (and not a drop of water got into them!), ran me baths and drove all the way to Fort William to walk with us just to drive back home less than an hour after arriving. Now that's a husband to be proud of. Chris- I owe you big style.

Charlotte, Lexie and Minnie, it's hard to let your mummy go away for days when you only see her three days a week but you girls were so supportive and it makes me proud of you that you understand that I was doing it help Auntie Emma and all of the poorly babies that go to heaven. And thanks for coming to the end with me!

Selena. Thank you for not insisting that Callum give up the last few days of the walk so that you could have a proper honeymoon. Married less than a week and she let her new husband go and finish this so that I could complete my challenge. Welcome to the family! and Thanks for driving to Fort William and bringing the bubbly.

Donna. You don't get much time with Kris and you supported him and encouraged him.

Emma, Tommy and family. Emma was like a one woman supporting machine. It was an honour to do something for Catriona but to have her crazy support was even better. When Tony donated his tenner on the Way she updated this on facebook "Thanks Tony, random dude out walking, who passed Clair and sponsored her £10. £10 pays for a memory box so people like me have something to fill our empty arms when leaving the hospital with a broken heart and broken dreams, leaving behind our dead baby" It brought my big ole macho brothers to tears. What a reason to keep walking.

alt

Everyone who sponsored me...I'm off to write about that now but lets just leave it at AWESOME.

 

and so to Fort William

The last day. The last few miles. The last hills. The last of our strength.

It was really, really, really hot. There were no clouds in the sky and even at 7:30am we were feeling the heat. There are not many pictures from walking on the last day- I was tired, I was hot and the camera was in my gilet, in my bag. I wasn't that keen to stop and look for it to take pictures. It's a bit of a shame though because it was a pretty section of the Way and the clear day meant we could see the peaks in the distance and the colours were spectacular.

alt

This is where we said goodbye to civilization- no more houses, roads or mobile phone reception until Fort William. See you Kinlochleven.

alt

There was no shelter, the sky was a gorgeous blue. And of course there were cairns. The boys are now fully fledged cairn builders... they can't resist to add to them.

alt

The route was mostly constructed from the path through a glen between some very serious looking mountains. The path was visible for miles and miles into the distance- always seeming to be on a slight incline. We seemed to always be climbing, which made no sense since we knew that we were finishing in Fort William which is at sea level, at some point we were going to have to go downhill. Or at least I hoped so.

alt

See that big hill, that's Ben Nevis. Yes, that's the kind of company we keep on this walk. A lot of people like to climb Ben Nevis after they finish the way, erm, no thanks.

But eventually the road did go down, it wasn't fun, it was an industrial access road. A little disappointing after the spectacular routes we had taken but given how very hot and very tired we were, we weren't that bothered.

alt

We were very nearly finished. Fort William is just over there.

We just had to pick up some extra people...

alt

Milngavie to Fort William. 96 miles. Now where is my medal?

 

Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse

This was to be the first day I had to walk after walking the day before. Up til now I'd had at least 3 days to recover before getting the boots back on, and to be perfectly honest I thought I really needed those days to recover.

I was stiff when I got up I was a little sore, my ankle was still swollen, my pack felt heavy and my hair was interesting. Oh well, at least I was getting a proper breakfast inside me. Toast, fruit, cereal and we all ordered the "West Highlander Breakfast", I'd like to report that the waiter responded with "there can be only one"  but sadly, no, we had a polite response of "thanks". Disappointment is difficult to take at that time of the morning. Oh well.

alt

First up we had to cross the river. Over the Bridge of Orchy if you will.

Everytime we walk mum likes to offer out little nuggets of knowledge, little helpful bits of wisdom. One of her favourites is still "it's always best to start with a hill". It goes against every grain of my being, it is exactly the opposite of what I want to do at seven thirty in the morning, hell, it goes against what I want to do at any time morning or afternoon. But after days of starting with a hill and days where the first hill didnt arrive until after lunch I have to agree with her, starting with a hill is better than waiting till later. Good thing since, we started with a hill.

alt

This one has a pretty good cairn at the top that is in rememberance of a bloke about whom all I can remember is his surname is Fleming and he was good at escaping frim occupied countries. That seems a good reason to have a cairn at the summit of a pretty big hill to me.

alt

This same hill now has another reasonable sized cairn too, not at the top but looking out to a pretty view towards Inveroran. A little cairn for Catriona.

alt

A quick hop skip and jump down the other side and we were ready for the real challenge of the day. Rannoch Moor. Fifty square miles of wilderness and barren bog and moorland and one safe route through- the old Drove Road. It's not used now, except for hikers and climbers and boy is it tough on the feet- rocky, and cobbles and bouldery all the way to Glencoe.

alt

alt

It is one of the most stunning landscapes I've ever seen in Scotland, to see nothing that marked out human habitation as far as the eye could see in every direction except the very road we were walking on. It's a landscape that was at the same time exceptionally similar but strikingly different in every direction. It is amazing to be surrounded by the giant mountains and so them recede into the distance and new ones to loom into view.

alt

But in the midst of the barren land the most lovely thing happened. We had stopped for elevenses at a bridge with other walkers. We got chatting and I explained to this one man walking on his own why we were all crazily hiking this route- I told him about Catriona, about Emma and about SANDS. And right there he handed me cash to add to the money we've raised. 10 miles from anywhere someone cared. Meet Tony, Tony is awesome.

alt

Mostly though, It's nice to stop tramping on solid rock  and find a place to lay your bag. Even if it is another mile uphill to dinner. The view is pretty good for dinner too...

alt

...the view of dinner is pretty decent. Good job because tomorrow it's a long way to Fort William. And the finish.

 alt

 

Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse

This was to be the first day I had to walk after walking the day before. Up til now I'd had at least 3 days to recover before getting the boots back on, and to be perfectly honest I thought I really needed those days to recover.

I was stiff when I got up I was a little sore, my ankle was still swollen, my pack felt heavy and my hair was interesting. Oh well, at least I was getting a proper breakfast inside me. Toast, fruit, cereal and we all ordered the "West Highlander Breakfast", I'd like to report that the waiter responded with "there can be only one"  but sadly, no, we had a polite response of "thanks". Disappointment is difficult to take at that time of the morning. Oh well.

alt

First up we had to cross the river. Over the Bridge of Orchy if you will.

Everytime we walk mum likes to offer out little nuggets of knowledge, little helpful bits of wisdom. One of her favourites is still "it's always best to start with a hill". It goes against every grain of my being, it is exactly the opposite of what I want to do at seven thirty in the morning, hell, it goes against what I want to do at any time morning or afternoon. But after days of starting with a hill and days where the first hill didnt arrive until after lunch I have to agree with her, starting with a hill is better than waiting till later. Good thing since, we started with a hill.

alt

This one has a pretty good cairn at the top that is in rememberance of a bloke about whom all I can remember is his surname is Fleming and he was good at escaping frim occupied countries. That seems a good reason to have a cairn at the summit of a pretty big hill to me.

alt

This same hill now has another reasonable sized cairn too, not at the top but looking out to a pretty view towards Inveroran. A little cairn for Catriona.

alt

A quick hop skip and jump down the other side and we were ready for the real challenge of the day. Rannoch Moor. Fifty square miles of wilderness and barren bog and moorland and one safe route through- the old Drove Road. It's not used now, except for hikers and climbers and boy is it tough on the feet- rocky, and cobbles and bouldery all the way to Glencoe.

alt

alt

It is one of the most stunning landscapes I've ever seen in Scotland, to see nothing that marked out human habitation as far as the eye could see in every direction except the very road we were walking on. It's a landscape that was at the same time exceptionally similar but strikingly different in every direction. It is amazing to be surrounded by the giant mountains and so them recede into the distance and new ones to loom into view.

alt

But in the midst of the barren land the most lovely thing happened. We had stopped for elevenses at a bridge with other walkers. We got chatting and I explained to this one man walking on his own why we were all crazily hiking this route- I told him about Catriona, about Emma and about SANDS. And right there he handed me cash to add to the money we've raised. 10 miles from anywhere someone cared. Meet Tony, Tony is awesome.

alt

Mostly though, It's nice to stop tramping on solid rock  and find a place to lay your bag. Even if it is another mile uphill to dinner. The view is pretty good for dinner too...

alt

...the view of dinner is pretty decent. Good job because tomorrow it's a long way to Fort William. And the finish.

 alt

 

Crianlarich to Bridge of Orchy

The wedding has been and gone, Callum and Selena's teeny tiny honeymoon has been and gone. Damn it, I am going to have to walk the last 50ish miles to Fort William in three days of straight walking. I'd need to carry a pack with all my stuff. I had to get to our destinations before food stopped being served if I wanted to eat something more substantial than sandwiches and bananas. Yeah, I was nervous and downright scared.

You know how somedays you just love your family, that you could spend all day with them and it would be a never ending day of fun and laughter? Yeah? Well this was the opposite of one of those days. I don't know if it was nerves, the walk, the pain (I suffer from excruciating pain in both my ankles due to old injuries for the first 2-3 miles, it was particularly bad that day), my bad mood, a clash between family (hey, we are normal!)...who knows. This won't go down in my mind as one of the best days ever but it wasn't awful either.

alt

In terms of walking it was reasonably straight forward. The climb back onto the Way from Crianlarich (yes, extra miles) was described by the guidebook as "pleasantly serendipitous". Having now walked this section of the way I can only suggest that the definition of that is "steep, springy underfoot, twisty, potentially midge infested"... if you ever walk it, I'd be interested in your thoughts on the matter.

alt

Other than that initial climb the way was reasonably easy going with odd little distractions to keep you distracted from the number of miles to go, and people pretending to be raptors. No I don't know why they were doing it either.

alt

Including the welcome sight of the Green Welly. The last real place to pick up supplies before Kinlochleven (which would be half way through the last day). By this time though, the welcome sight of the Green Welly wasn't enough to consider taking on extra weight- our packs were heavy to us, used to only carrying day sacks- so we had a coke and a calippo and before we were ready to head out, it was inevitable that since the Green Welly is the  stop for bikers in the area that my brother would meet someone he knew...sadly he could not be convinced to take our packs to Bridge of Orchy for us so it was onwards and upwards.

alt

Straight out of Tyndrum it's  a long slow climb up into the valley. The way follows the line of the railway more or less all the way to Bridge of Orchy. It's the first time you really see the drama and sheer size of the Highlands, the stern and barren look of those giant hills. It's quite a scary thought knowing that that is what we were up against all the way to Fort William. There is no "easy" terrain in the Highlands...

alt

This was a fairly simple walk onto Bridge of Orchy, once we were up at the height of the valley it was more undulations than hills all the way. There were one or two tunnels under the railway line- known locally as "sheep creeps" which allow people and anaimals to cross to the land either side of the single railway line. My brothers were super keen to turn mum upside down and put her feet on the ceiling on the tunnel. Sadly, despite the number of opportunites in the 96 miles she never once allowed them. I would suggest that this just means it'll happen when she least expects it.

alt

It was a long, sore, hot, slightly bad tempered day and we were all glad to get to Bridge of Orchy. To a hot dinner, to a supply of hot coffee or beer, a hot shower, an opportunity to put on flipflops not boots and a bed of sorts. Before bed things were better between us and we had a plan for the next day, we had reassured mum that there were no ridgewalks or truly terrifying things in front of her tomorrow, I was distinctly less grumpy and Kris and Callum were their usual buoyant selves.

Night All, Glencoe tomorrow.

 
  • «
  •  Start 
  •  Prev 
  •  1 
  •  2 
  •  Next 
  •  End 
  • »
Page 1 of 2

Hi, glad you found us

Welcome to our blog. It has a lot about the kids, occasional Crafting and a healthy dose of Chaos.

family_260

I'm Clair, I'm the mama. I spend more time than I'd really like at "work" and not nearly enough time jumping in muddy puddles with the girls, sewing, reading or in my bed. It's a tough life being a mum but it's the best life in the world

Charlotte is the eldest. With a memory that will come back to haunt anyone making rash promises, she reads voraciously, loves to draw and write with her mama's love of stationary. She relishes being a Brownie and is capable of anything she sets her mind on!

Lexie might be in the middle but she doesn't let that hold her back from being in the lead. She is confident and happy with a way of worming her way into your heart. Never happier than when singing and dancing or chatting she is never one to miss a chance to have an adventure however big or small.

Minnie need only crack that smile or roll her eyes and you'll be helpless to do as she asks. My little girl with an equal love of princesses and cars, who will happilyrace her cars around her dolls house and wear her Tinkerbell nightie to bed under her Lightning McQueen duvet. Determined and delightful in equal measure.

Christopher is the Daddy and the glue who keeps this ship afloat on a day to day basis. A man who is happy to answer the question "What do you do?" with "I'm a dad" he deserves the kudos for everything from having clean underwear, packed lunches, functioning plumbing, paid bills and the perfect ballet bun - and pretty much anything inbetween.

We'rejust an ordinary family figuring out how to get through one day at a time. Perhaps with a little more self created chaos than necessary

 

Want to get in touch?

Leave a comment, find us on Facebook, or I've even been known to tweet as @mammydalby.

All content and opinion is my own and does not represent the views or opinions of my employer, or any organisations mentioned.

Facebook MySpace Twitter Digg Delicious Stumbleupon Google Bookmarks RSS Feed 

Latest Comments